Kalamata

Kalamata sits up a steep flight of stairs above a row of shops on Jalan 26A/70A in Desa Sri Hartamas, and bills itself as the oldest Greek restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. It began life as Kalamata Cafe under an owner of Greek and Egyptian heritage who grew up in Athens, which explains a menu that mixes Greek family dishes with a handful of Cairo and Alexandria favourites.

Stay on the Greek side of the list for the moussaka baked in a clay pot, beef pastitsio, spanakopita, stuffed grape leaves and the Greek beef meatballs, then add lamb or chicken souvlaki and a plate of Greek potatoes. The smoked New Zealand lamb shoulder feeds three or four and needs ordering a day ahead; Egyptian koshary and lamb shank fatta are there for anyone curious.

Generous portions and modest prices make it a good fit for relaxed family meals and small groups living in Hartamas and Mont Kiara. Several reviewers describe the kitchen as pork-free. It shuts early on Mondays, and there is no lift to the dining room.