Bakalaki Greek Taverna

BAKALAKI takes its name from two Greek words: the bakaliko, the village grocer stocked with olives, cheese and honey, and meraki, the care put into a job. The restaurant sits on the ground floor at 38A Martin Road, between River Valley and Robertson Quay, with a blue-and-white dining room, a terrace and a small deli selling Greek pantry goods to take home.

Start with horiatiki or dakos, then move to the grill. Htapodi, the grilled octopus dressed in the house olive oil and lemon, is the dish regulars mention most, alongside paidakia lamb chops and kalamaki skewers. From the oven come moussakas, pastitsio and a beef yiouvetsi with orzo. Fish platters built around sea bream or sea bass suit a table of four, and loukoumades with honey make the classic finish.

It works for relaxed group dinners and long weekend lunches, and the list of Greek wines and beers is broad. It opens daily from 11:30am until midnight. Book through Chope; delivery runs from noon to 9pm.