Alati Divine Greek Cuisine

Alati is the ancient Greek word for salt, and the restaurant has built its name on fish. Open on Amoy Street since October 2015, it fills a tall shophouse dressed in Cycladic white and blue, with whitewashed walls, stone benches and blue cushions.

The fresh catch is the reason to come: lavraki, tsipoura, fagri and milokopi priced by weight, grilled or baked in a salt crust that takes 30 to 40 minutes. Before it, share the five-dip platter or the Mykonos-style octopus. Mains run from bakaliaros skordalia, crisp cod with beetroot and garlic sauce, to lamb baklava, where slow-cooked shoulder is wrapped in filo. The house bougatsa with pistachio and orange ice cream makes a good finish.

Prices are higher than at a typical taverna, which suits client lunches and special dinners. It opens Monday to Saturday for lunch from 11:30am to 2:30pm and dinner from 6pm to 11pm, and is closed on Sundays. Book through SevenRooms or WhatsApp.